From the Chudo (Miracle) of Lights to the Chudo (Miracle) of Snow

It is hard to believe that I have been in Odessa almost a month and half, and even harder to know where to begin…

Arriving just in time for the Festival of Lights, Chanukah, I had an opportunity see to the Jewish Community and Jewish Organizations of Odessa at their most active and celebratory (though I can only imagine or have hints at the Festivities awaiting for Purim).

While dozens of events took place, the largest scale event that I personally took a role in was the first “maladushka”- evening for youth- that the Beit Grande planned and executed since its opening. The Beit Grande or the Jewish Cultural Center- is the brand new, beautiful, full block building, which was recently constructed and opened in Odessa. While there are many active, established, and quite impressive Jewish organizations in Odessa, the Beit Grande is very unique to Odessa’s Jewish Community.

Upon walking into the Beit Grande you immediately notice that above you there is a three floor, spiraling staircase sculpture (representing Jacob’s dream from Genesis), while below you, you find yourself standing on a piece of Jerusalem limestone in the middle of the lobby. Immediately you understand the goal of this massive and very beautiful Jewish institution; to reach and dream high for the future of their Jewish Community while remaining firmly planted in the values and traditions that have always held the Jewish People together.

[As a note, I must mention that my project in arriving in Odessa was to assist with Jewish Renewal programs at the Beit Grande and having a strong background in JCC work, I am quite partial to the Beit Grande and deeply believe in its mission].

Having only opened last Chanukah, the Beit Grande had double to celebrate this Chanukah with their first anniversary, and their “maladushka” was the crowning jewel on 8 day’s worth of events and commemorations. The “maladushka” involved over a hundred young adults, ranging in age from 17 to 30 in attendance, a fire show, performances by Ukrainian pop stars (who just happened to grow up in the Jewish community and attending Jewish camps in Ukraine), menorah give-a-ways, and lots and lots of ponichiki.

While Chanukah in Odessa was quite an experience, even the festival of lights could not keep the snow from arriving. Odessa, in matter of days had more snow and freezing temperatures than it had seen in over half of century. Being a Mediterranean city with long summers and short (mostly snowless) winters, the arrival of the first blizzard of the winter had completely paralyzed the city. As the city was not prepared, it had no choice but to shut down (schools, work places, and stores). The Heaps of snow had created terrible traffic conditions where drivers stood in traffic for 7-10 hours only than to be forced to get out and push their cars to side streets. Public transportation was temporarily suspended and many people had to spend a night or two sleeping at their jobs or friends close by, as they were not able to get out of the center of the city to get home to Odessa’s residential areas. Garbage could not be picked (and the usual several stray dogs problem- worsened). Trucks with produce deliveries were unable to get into the city and bread quickly became a valuable commodity as it could not be found in most stores for several days. Of course the weather conditions were not all bad, children were quickly spotted outside with the first signs of snowflakes riding their sleighs down snow hills, and I even spotted several people snowboarding down the Potemkin Staircase!

Overall, it took the city about a week and half to fully recover- going from a winter wonderland to an ice skating ring (with temperatures falling minus 20 Celsius and causing the entire unshoveled city to become frozen) to a swimming pool (with temperatures going to plus 10 Celsius, with no drainage system on the streets) and finally returning to the beautiful streets that I have come to know and love.

With the city being shut down by the snow and in preparation for the holidays, I took advantage and took a quick trip to Kiev to visit some friends and colleagues. While I only spent a few days in Kiev, I was immediately astounded by how large the city was and how very different from Odessa. While I have only been away from New York for a month and half, I had already forgotten the craziness of riding subways (Odessa does not have a metro system- as it build on catacombs used as a system of leaving and entering the city during wars in the previous century- the catacombs have caused parts of Odessa to be sinking as well as constant traffic jams due to lack of public transportation). As a side note, the subways in Kiev are quite deep underground and the escalators run very quickly causing a scary situation for first-time users.

Overall, Kiev is a very beautiful and impressive city, however walking around many of its famous and infamous sites (will post pictures soon) Baba Yar-site of the mass killing of thousands of Jews during the Second World War (the worst murder of Jewish residents occurred here, where in matter of two days over thirty thousand Jews were murdered and dumped at the now Public Park), Square of Independence, Mandarin, Andriyivisky Spusk, and of course eating at a Puzata Hata- I found myself missing not New York but Odessa…

With this I arrived back to Odessa, to spend my first New Year’s away from New York and home in what is beginning to feel like home with my newfound friends and city. Since I arrived in Odessa, many have welcomed me here with the idea that this city is my rodina (birthplace). Sometimes I find this concept a bit off, as in my month and half here I have been forced to discover how “American” I am in upbringing and mentality. Yet, every day I find myself more drawn to this city, its residents, lifestyle, and Jewish Community.

In the FSU and back home in Little Odessa, New Year’s is always a very big holiday and celebration. Whenever, I would sit as a child at the table with my family on New Year’s we would always begin by toasting good-bye to the Old Year. 2009 was a year of many changes, good-byes, and beginnings for me and 2010 will have many more. This New Year’s I find myself very grateful for all the love and support from my family, friends, and colleagues throughout this experience. Without it I know I would not be privileged enough to be on this journey. While I will be saying good-bye today to 2009 a whole seven hours before all of them, I also know that I bring all the support, memories, experiences, and people into 2010 as I move forward. To illuminate the path for me when it gets dark…

HAPPY New Years!